(This is the first installment in a series on goat pregnancy, labor, and delivery. Check out post number two on how to assemble a grab-n-go kidding kit HERE.)
“How do I know if my goat is pregnant?”
“If I post some pictures, can you tell me if my goat is pregnant?”
“My goat [did something] and [looks like something] and they might have been with a buck [a certain amount of time ago] at the previous owner’s, do you think she’s pregnant?”
As we are nearing kidding season, I thought now would be a proper time to address the all important issue of detecting goat pregnancy.
We’ve all seen those shows (or at least heard of them) where a woman had no clue she was pregnant until she suddenly had awful pains and out popped a baby. While it still boggles my mind that a woman could manage to not know she was pregnant, it’s actually pretty easy for a goat to hide her pregnancy…or, on the flip side, look extremely pregnant when she isn’t. (Enter those awkward “when are you due?” questions, right?)
Here’s the thing about ruminants. They have rumens. And those rumens can get BIG. A rumen is basically a giant fermentation vat where food is digested and gases are produced in the process. The gases not only make the rumen — and therefore, the outside of the goat — swell, they also cause movement as well. In fact, if you gently massage the left side of the goat’s stomach where the rumen is located, you can feel gas bubbles breaking and the rumen swelling. I’ve seen movement from digestion on both the left and right side of non-pregnant goats.
It’s really fascinating how it all works, but it can also be frustrating for new goat owners who are trying to determine the pregnancy status of their goats.
The bottom line is that goat “stomachs” are often misleading. Male goats can appear to be pregnant thanks to the development of the rumen, while female goats who are indeed pregnant can hide the pregnancy so well that their owners have no clue there are babies coming until they arrive. This is especially true of long bodied does or does who have good depth of body as well.
Because goats are tricksters, it’s impossible to rely on their appearance to accurately diagnose pregnancy. That’s not to say it is impossible to be right based on appearance — there have been many times when I guessed correctly prior to actually doing any definitive testing — but at the end of the day it’s mostly a crap shoot. Knowing the normal look of your goats and paying attention to changes can help, but it’s not foolproof. For example, I have one doe in particular who always…and I do mean always…looks ten months pregnant. Because I know her so well, I can see fluctuations in her body, but to try to determine pregnancy based on her tummy would be a fool’s errand even for me.
This can also be impacted by a number of other factors as well. A single kid is going to hide much easier than quads. A doe who has had many pregnancies may also lose the shapeliness of her girlish figure over time and always have a distended belly — this is due to the muscles stretching and what not, just like in a human who has had a few children. Pregnancy does leave its mark on a body. The doe’s general conformation plays a roll as well, and an overweight doe may appear unusually plump even when not pregnant.
I won’t spend too much time on the idea that one can tell if a goat is pregnant based on her vaginal area. That area is not going to change significantly until near the end of pregnancy. I’ll also point out that each doe may have variances as well, when it comes to which direction things are pointing back there. It’s not a reliable means of determining pregnancy. So…
How do you know if your goat is pregnant?
I’m going to break down the basic, most fool-proof methods of determining pregnancy in goats.
Physical Changes
I get that not everyone wants to go through the trouble of the other methods I’m listing below, and that’s okay. Some may just not be as obsessive about knowing for certain well ahead of time as I am. (I HAVE to know.) So for those people, here are some physical changes to look for:
- First, know your goats’ “normal” well. That may be hard if you’ve recently purchased them, but if you’ve had them for awhile you will become accustomed to how they normally look on a day-to-day basis. Go from there and look for changes.
- Remember that the (goat’s) left side is the rumen and the right side is where the babies will typically hang out, although both babies and the rumen can cause distention in the general abdomen on both sides.
- Late in pregnancy, it is possible to feel the babies kick and move on the right side of the body. (I’ve never been able to feel this before the last month-ish of pregnancy.) This movement is very distinct. The normal digestive movements are soft whereas a bony little goat hoof feels quite different. Feel on the right toward the back and also down near the foreudder.
- Udder development is usually a dead giveaway. There are only three times this can fool you: Precocious udder, false pregnancy, and a first freshener who does not develop an udder on time. Precocious udders and false pregnancies both cause does (and sometimes bucks!) who are not pregnant to develop their mammary systems. First fresheners on the other hand will sometimes not develop an udder until the very last second. I have had a first freshener not develop until after she kidded and was given oxytocin (a hormone). Otherwise, does will start to develop an udder a month or so out from kidding, but it largely depends on the doe. Some will start to develop milk earlier than others (first timers or not).
- Watch for signs of estrus. A doe who has been successfully bred will not come back into heat. This can be a bit tougher as it nears the end of the rut/breeding season in seasonal does, and also for does who have more subdued heat cycles.
- Lastly, the ligaments around the tailhead will begin to soften when the doe is very close to kidding. When the ligaments “disappear” all together the doe is usually 12 hours or less from kidding. (Really this is more accurately a sign of when your doe is about to NOT be pregnant anymore!) There is a learning curve to this, so at first the ligaments may feel “gone” when they’re not yet. Practice will improve accuracy.
Bonus: If you see hooves sticking out of the business end of the animal, you can be assured that your goat is indeed going to have kids…like, now.
Blood Test
This is my preferred method for a few reasons: It is easy, it is inexpensive, and it is highly accurate. In addition to that, it is also the perfect way to get yearly disease testing out of the way at the same time, thereby killing two birds with one stone.
Drawing blood on goats is quite simple once you get the hang of it. It’s best to have someone show you in person, but if you can’t I have also posted a video demonstrating how to do it. Blood sample testing is fairly cheap (I use Biotracking most often and have used WADDL as well).
The blood tests mode of detection is to test for pregnancy specific proteins which occur in association with fetal and placental development. In order for blood tests to be accurate, the does must be 30 days or more post breeding. Results are back super fast — typically the same day the test is run. They’re also extremely accurate: Biotracking’s BioPRYN test is over 99% accurate for open (not pregnant) does and approximately 95% accurate for pregnant results when testing is done at least 30 days post breeding. Some percentage of false positives are attributed to early abortion rather than test inaccuracy.
Ultrasound
Ultrasound is a bit more expensive than blood tests due to the need for a trained veterinarian or technician to perform the ultrasound, but they have the bonus of being very very cool! The actual cost will vary based on what your vet charges and whether you have a barn visit or go into the office for the test.
Ultrasounds have the added perk that you can have an idea of how many kids will be born as well — or at least if there will be more than one. Although the u-shaped uterus of goats, called uterine “horns,” makes it difficult to distinguish between twins, triplets, or more, it is possible to identify multiples (although not with 100% accuracy — again, goats are tricky). When I recently had a doe ultrasounded, we saw two very distinct little heartbeats and two sets of rib cages, meaning she is carrying at least twins.
Goats must be at least 25 days post breeding for an ultrasound to be accurate, and the heartbeat becomes detectable at 27 days.
Although ultrasounds are fun and highly accurate, the downside is needing a professional to come do them. (Unless you have the cash to shell out thousands on your own ultrasound machine. More power to ya — I’d do it if I could!) I like things that I can do on my own convenience and with little help.
Radiography
This is one I have not done on goats (although I have on a dog once), but it’s certainly an option. One bonus is that x-rays are 100% accurate after day 70 post-breeding and can give you an accurate number of kids after day 75.
The downside is that this option requires a trip to a veterinary clinic and a longer wait — 70 days vs roughly 30 with other methods, which means you’re putting off re-breeding for quite awhile. So not only do you have to wait until the goat is over two months bred to find out her status, but you also have to load her up and carry her to a vet’s office and thereby risking stress and exposure to pathogens.
Milk Testing
Testing milk samples for pregnancy is similar to blood samples in that it is also searching for proteins caused by pregnancy, and as such shows similar accuracy. It can be utilized at 28 days or more post breeding.
The biggest bonus I see to this option is the ability to take a daily activity — milking the goats — and use it to test for pregnancy simultaneously. This would be especially convenient for those who are currently on milk test, as they would be able to simply take samples they were already sending and put them to a second use.
One major downside I see to this option is that it is only effective for does currently in milk (of course). That means that first fresheners who have not ever been bred and milked before cannot be tested using the same method as the rest of the herd, and neither could any does who were dry for other reasons either. This would also not be as useful for those raising goats strictly for meat or fiber, either.
Urine Testing
Alas, no…the sticks from the drug store will not tell us if a goat is pregnant. The human hormones are not the same as goat hormones.
However, there is a urine test that is fairly new on the scene. I just learned of this test for the first time in December. The big bonuses of this test include nearly instant results — with no shipping or waiting or appointment scheduling — and a very cost effective price at just $2 a test.
There are downsides, however. First of all, this test is designed for cattle. Although cows and goats are very similar, they are not exactly the same, and that calls into question the accuracy of this test for goats vs cows. It’s a newer method and therefore not proven yet. It also requires the collection of goat urine. Having been in the “standing around waiting on a goat to poop” place many times (because, lets be honest, I don’t want to “manually” collect poop if I don’t really, really have to), I imagine the waiting and then the mad dash to catch the squatter in action would be a bit tedious.
Worse yet, I’ve seen a couple of negative reviews from people trying it out. It appears as though the tests are reading incorrectly in goats. Here’s an example:
Follow up to my P-Test through EMLab:
Background: Mid December I posted about 6 does (and 1 buck) that I preg checked with the P-test (urine preg test for cattle). The doe’s were anywhere from 5-50 days along. ALL tested positive, even the buck. None were showing any signs of heat (and these girls are very obvious about heat!). No other known reason for false positives.
As of today, 3 of the doe’s have been confirmed bred by WADDL. The other 3 have come back into heat so I didn’t bother with blood testing. I haven’t seen the buck come into heat, but based on the girl’s results I have a 50/50 chance that he is actually bred. (Please note the heavy sarcasm).
In a related note, I have 10 unopened, brand new P-tests for sale! I don’t think we’ll be wasting any more time and money with them. Evidently, there are too many variables that give a false positive for me to consider them useful.” -Hiedi Brandt, Facebook (quoted with permission)
The test is designed to work by detecting the pregnancy hormone estrone sulfate in 1 ml of urine between 60 and 210 days after mating. This one would be pretty awesome, I must admit, if it pans out for goats. As of now the jury is still out for me — there’s just not enough evidence for me to trust its accuracy and mounting evidence against it from first hand accounts.
Bottom Line
The bottom line is this: the best way to know for sure if your goats are pregnant is to use a tried-and-true, reliable method that has been around a while and proven to be accurate. That means blood testing, ultrasounding, or using radiography. Those are the only real ways to know for sure.
With other methods we may be right sometimes, but we’re really just making an educated guess.
Cheers
Jennifer A says
Our two does were bred in October, so we’re expecting in March. This is our first time, and theirs. I’m slowly getting more anxious about knowing beforehand, but we haven’t done any testing yet. The girls have acted differently since the billy was here, and their bodies have changed somewhat. My husband keeps telling me he sees movement on the left side. 🙂 I’ll make sure he reads this. Can you give a ballpark price on the blood test? Thanks for sharing all this information, and you have a beautiful blog too!
Rachel says
I know what you mean, I get so impatient toward the end! The anticipation is terrible! But it’s so much fun, too. I love to guess how many they’ll have and what colors.
Sure! It’s cheapest through Biotracking, but I think it varies at different labs (they have several). The one I send to is $6.50 for the pregnancy test. Then the shipping usually isn’t too expensive. WADDL is more expensive and if you are not located in Washington they charge an extra $10 as well, but they test for Johnes and CL also while Biotracking only does CAE and pregnancy. For me it’s easier to just send everything to WADDL if I’m doing Johnes or CL tests at the same time, but if I’m not I like Biotracking better. 🙂
And thank you!
Amber says
I’m wondering what are the chances for false negatives with the blood pregnancy test? I tested my does that were with a buck for several months and they all came back negative but one of them is definitely getting wider than normal with more of a bump on the right side. Also I quit milking her a couple of months ago and she does have a little bit of a bag, does it go away or stay there a little after they’ve freshened a few times? I didn’t send the blood out the vet tested it, not sure if that makes a difference or not. Thank you
Rachel says
A false negative is definitely possible. If the test is taken less than 30 days from the breeding date, it won’t accurate. There is also a margin of error even in the correct timing. Biotracking has a 99% accuracy on negative tests, but there’s always the 1%. If your vet uses a different mode of testing, the accuracy may differ, too.
It does take a while for an udder to disappear completely when drying them up, so that could be residual udder. It takes a bit of time for it to go back to that “flat as a pancake” look when they dry off. A second blood test or an ultrasound might be a good idea for you if you want to know for sure!
doris says
i have a alpine doe last year she delivered a still born. i re bred her
in november . but i think something is wrong. she is huge a friend came by and examined her
she says she feels the baby moving. but her udders have not dropped. she has no signs of kidding.
she is healthy she is eating ,drinking, normal stools. i’m scared for her can you give me any ideas at all i would really appreciate it. her name is India and she is 2 years old.
thanks and god bless
Doris
Rachel says
Hi Doris, it’s really hard to say without more information what’s going on with your doe, but I will give you some general info that should help give you a starting place. 🙂 If she was bred in November, depending on the exact date she would be due in April or May. While most does start to develop their udder earlier, some does won’t have their milk come in until very last minute. I even had a doe who didn’t come into milk until after she gave birth. It’s also possible for a doe who is not pregnant to have movement that looks/feels like kids due to the rumen, which can also get quite large. Still, assuming a doe is pregnant, they also may not act different at all or show any signs of kidding until right at delivery time. They are prey animals, so their instinct is to not draw attention to any potential weakness as this might make them a target for predators. Most of the time does will carry on as normal up until the day they give birth. I would suggest for you to take a look at the very last possible date she was with the buck, and if she goes more than a couple of days past day 150 from that date, I would have a vet examine and ultrasound her. You could also go ahead and do that now as well, just to ease your mind.
Also, you said she had a stillborn last year — if that kid had been dead before she gave birth, or showed signs of prematurity, I would recommend testing her for abortive diseases. I would especially say to do so if she has dead or premature kids again, or if anyone else in your herd does. Along with mineral deficiency (primarily copper and selenium) there are many diseases that can cause abortion or other fertility issues, some of which are contagious to humans. Always be careful handling suspicious birthing fluids for this reason, in particular do not handle aborted fetuses/fluid without gloves and special precaution — and steer absolutely clear if you are pregnant. However, it’s not uncommon for a doe (especially a first freshener) to sometimes not take care of a kid well enough after birth and the kid die. If you were not present for the birth and the kid was normal looking but was simply dead, or if it was still in the amniotic sac, then I would suspect more that the kid simply did not get dried, didn’t get out of the sac, or didn’t get its airways cleaned quickly enough and died during the birthing process rather than being truly stillborn (dead prior to birth). Sometimes first timers don’t know what to do, and sometimes a difficult birth can result in the doe not being able to do her job as well. I’ve also seen an experienced doe have one kid and start taking care of it, then have a second and not even notice it at all.
Anyway, I hope this helps and good luck! Please let me know how it goes for your doe!
Liz says
I purchased the P-test last fall. All does tested positive for late pregnancy), even a pet doe that had a hysterectomy. Approximately half of the does that tested positive came back in to heat.